Wednesday, June 21, 2006

Suzhou, Dong Shan, LuXiang and Taihu Lake

Suzhou

A few weeks ago I got to spend the work week in Suzhou, China (about 60 kms west of Shanghai) for some Intel training (Managing Through People). I took the Monday morning train, leaving Shanghai at 9:37 and arriving in Suzhou at 10:17. The training was at the Sheraton Hotel, a very,very nice 5-star hotel. For lunch I had a veggie burger with the best cup of coffee yet in China.

The class was good. I met many other Intel Managers. See below for team picture.

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Friday afternoon: I checked out of the 5-star Sheraton and into the barely 3-star Changmen Hotel across town near Changmen Gate. Located on the grounds of the 1930's era mansion, the hotel had seen better days. Sun-Ling arrived about 6:30PM. We had a nice stroll and ate dinner at a Vietnamese restaurant near the hotel at a table with a canal view.

1920's house at Changmen Hotel
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The reconstruction on Changmen Gate.
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Rickshaw with "familiar" logo.
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The next morning we strolled around the hotel grounds, did a bit of shopping, dropped off most of our bags at Left Luggage at the train station, bought our train tix back to Shanghai (about $1.50 US each), and took bus #506 to DongShan (East Mountain) which is a peninsula about 35 KM SW of Suzhou that jutts into Taihu Lake, the 3rd largest natural lake in China.

The bus ride from Suzhou to Dong Shan was a classic Third World long distance bus ride with one hundred stops in 30 kms and a pregnant woman with motion sickness seated in front of me. Also, the hydraulics that opened and closed the bus doors failed at least twice with the driver having to stop and make repairs. For the second failure, the doors closed but would not open, causing a 4 y.o. girl to be stuck outside the bus and her mother inside. That caused quite a racket. Finally, about 100 meters from the terminal, the bus ran into a guy on a motorbike. Don't know whose fault. The guy on the bike was bleeding profusely from his mouth but could stand up so I guess he ended up OK. He was quickly carted away in a bicycle rickshaw. Sun-Ling and I were thrown against the backs of the seats in front of us when the driver slammed on the brakes. I got a bruised shin and lost some skin but no blood. Sun-Ling was unscathed. This is our third bus accident in our world travels, the first involving any injuries.

We then took the local bus to the west and found a hotel in LuXiang Village with a great view of the boat docks and TaiHu lake, took a stroll into the hills, visited the old town, and walked out on the docks to check out one of the few remaining authentic sailing junks on the lake.

Views from hotel room balcony. The boats with mast are "real" Chinese junks. We got a tour of the 5-masted one on the very end of the dock.

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The captain (at right) is the 3rd generation to sail this boat, one of only 5 left on the lake.
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And a close look at the rigging for you sailing enthusiasts.
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Looking back to our hotel and the boat dock.
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The old town part of LuXiang is hundreds of years old. The town starts at the edge of the lake and then spreads out inland and up. It is surrounded by terraced peach and pipa (white loquat) orchards and the buildings on the outskirts are actually right in the terraces.

A view of LuXiang town from up in the hills.
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Later we had dinner at a floating restaurant and then sat out on our balcony to watch the fireflies - the only fireflies I've ever seen in China.

The next day we had breakfast in the old town, bought 2 baskets of pipas,
rode the bus back to Suzhou for a quick visit with Sun-Ling's Uncle and Aunt, picked up our bags, and rode the 5PM train back to Shanghai.

The "old" village of Luxiang had one swanky, new hotel - an old house and garden converted to a very posh 6-room hotel. Here's a photos of yours truly relaxing in the common area.

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And the garden.
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Art students sketching in LuXiang village.
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The Suzhou train station
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A shot out the bus window of one of the many pagodas in Suzhou
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